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About a Soy

Dorothy So HK-magazine.com 10/02/2009 15:10
About a Soy - Food - Restaurants - Dining


Who says tofu’s bland and tasteless? Dorothy So savors the humble bean in all its many shapes and forms.



Rustic Farm-House Style

About a Soy - Food - Restaurants - Dining

The folks at Eclipse took a gamble when they chose tofu as the signature ingredient at their new Japanese restaurant, Taku, but the gamble has definitely paid off. Their handcrafted tofu is made every day and the freshness shows through its mild yet distinct nutty bean taste. There are three signature soy dishes to choose from, the most “tofuey” tasting being the steamed variety, served with a soba sauce and a choice of toppings. The chilled tofu (topped with ginger shoot, chopped chives and other ingredients such as ikura and diced maguro for a slight salty kick) has the silkiest texture. And if you want to sample tofu in its rawest, most natural form, try the fresh “farm-house” tofu, which arrives in a cute, rustic-style mini basket. The beancurd has a dense, almost cream cheese-esque texture but is still refreshingly light, especially when paired with the fragrant yuzu zest on top. Taku also does a wonderful yakitori-styled tofu. Grilled to a chewy deliciousness on the outside and coated with a sweet and salty soy-based sauce, this tofu is perfect if the “au natural” farm-house variety seems just a little too healthy. Taku, 35 Elgin St., Central, 2545-9966.

Silk and Spice
Silken tofu fa beancurd dessert served with syrup and yellow sugar is common enough, but have you ever tried the spicy version? Get it at San Xi Lou, the Sichuan restaurant that came up with the new dish, pairing silky tofu with fish in spicy soup. The homemade tofu is brought to the table in a giant stone pot along with a separate bowl brimming with roasted peanuts, chopped scallions and slices of white fish swimming in a bright red spicy broth. Scoop the ingredients over the tofu for a strange but beautiful concoction: the numbingly hot flavor of the soup (a mixture of Sichuan chili bean sauce, homemade chili oil, among other fiery-flavored condiments) cuts through the tofu’s naturally mild taste and soft, smooth texture, giving a kick to the typically easy-on-the-stomach silken tofu dish. San Xi Lou, 7/F, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Rd., Central, 2838-8811.

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